Metisse review

GOOD FOOD RATING:
14.5/20

A five-course degustation dinner with matched wines for $100 a head? Am I dreaming?

Dining at the new Metisse in Kings Cross is like travelling through time, and not just because of the so-last-century prices.

The notorious restaurant site where Gastro Park traded –  just off the strip at Kings Cross – will reopen this week as Metisse with head chef Benoit Lollichon, a graduate of Restaurant Guy Savoy, the Paris eatery with a bank of Michelin stars.

It was a sad day when  Gastro Park closed its doors, and an even sadder day when Grant King’s next restaurant in the space, Antipodean, closed after less than a year in operation.

Historically, Sydney’s Kings Cross has not been known for its restrained French chic. The area became a red-light district after World War II, as sailors docked at the nearby naval base and came ashore looking for a little R&R.

The “Barcelona” building might be one of Potts Point’s most surprising and striking architectural structures, but it’s got a high restaurant casualty rate. The former Gastro Park site, which then became Antipodean, and then Etelek, is now home to an ambitious French restaurant, Metisse, that’s bucking the share-plate trend.